Catherine Harvey offers the following royalty-free article for you to publish online or in print.
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Article Title: Priceless Removals Around London
Author: Catherine Harvey
Category: Customer Service, Collecting
Word Count: 504
Keywords: antique removal, antique removals, antique furniture
Author's Email Address: jamie@highposition.net
Article Source: http://www.articlemarketer.com
------------------ ARTICLE START ------------------
Take a look at the auction list for Christies in London and you will find it littered with antique furniture and fine art sales. Furniture dating back to Louis XV, made from the finest materials and expecting to carry price tags running into hundreds of thousands of pounds are on sale. Their most recent fine art auction saw the sale of an Old Master with an estimated value of 6 pounds million.
Wealthy people are well aware that antiques just do not lose value and are an excellent investment for the future. Unlike the precarious property market and unstable banking systems, antique furniture will hold its value, if not gain more, and can be enjoyed for what it is by the owner.
But what happens to this furniture leading up to the sale and immediately after?
Furniture has to be moved from the current owner, stored and then transported to the auction. Transportation after the sale to the new owner is of utmost importance as, of course, the owner wants it to arrive in the condition in which he purchased it.
Antique furniture removal is an incredibly specialised operation. Furniture and fine art has to be moved and stored with meticulous care and handling.
There is also the safety aspect to consider. With the top auctions going on in the heart of London, hosting sales of items worth up to millions of pounds, secure storage is of paramount importance. Choosing the right company to store and move your antique furniture will ensure that fully trained and security cleared personnel will take care of your valuables.
Using the most sophisticated electronics as well as fire detection and prevention, the right antique furniture removal company will treat your treasures as if they were their own. Only the top companies will receive, unpack, assess and report the condition of your antiques as well as offer a restoration and conservation service.
Whilst in possession of your furniture, they will keep a record of its condition and location, from the moment of receipt up until delivery. Not restricted to London, a reputable antique furniture removal company will be able to safely and securely ship your purchase to any worldwide location.
Of course, everybody has a duty to care for the environment in the light of the risks of vehicle emissions - particularly in and around London where the volume of traffic is so enormous. Auctions in London are taking place constantly with hundreds of lots per sale, requiring many deliveries and removals.
Choosing a removal company that considers the environment is essential. Storage containers made from wood from sustainable sources, with the option of re-using the packaging is a wise decision. Using electric hybrid vehicles with low emission levels is also an environmentally friendly option.
Antique furniture removal companies are also able to remove complete households and offices and relocate them, providing a complete packing, storage, removal and relocation service. To ensure your own investment, ask the removal company you use to compose a full survey and report, detailing all possessions and exactly what they intend to provide.
Antiques expert Catherine Harvey looks at the business of antique removals in and around London. To find out more please visit http://www.cadogantate.com/
------------------ ARTICLE END ------------------
Tuesday, January 8, 2008
Monday, December 31, 2007
3 Tips to Follow When Purchasing the Right Airsoft Gun
Nerode Abraham offers the following royalty-free article for you to publish online or in print.
Feel free to use this article in your newsletter, website, ezine, blog, or forum.
-----------
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Article Title: 3 Tips to Follow When Purchasing the Right Airsoft Gun
Author: Nerode Abraham
Category: Extreme, Collecting, Shopping
Word Count: 520
Keywords: airsoft guns, airsoft shotgun, airsoft machine gun, airsoft, gas powerd airsoft gun
Author's Email Address: admin@projectsecuritycorp.com
Article Source: http://www.articlemarketer.com
------------------ ARTICLE START ------------------
Airsofting requires some very specific equipment. Depending on what kind of Airsofter you are, you might need special camouflaged clothing, and you will definitely need a helmet, some gloves, and some padding because airsoft pellets do not live up to their name when they are coming at you at high velocities. The most important piece of equipment you will need to purchase, of course, is your airsoft gun. When buying an airsoft gun there are two basic things you will want to already know when you go into the airsoft supply store: what kind of airsoft gun you want and how much power and speed you want your airsoft gun to have.
Airsoft guns come with three different types of power: spring power, electric power and gas power. The spring airsoft guns are good for people who are just starting out as airsofters because while they are not the most powerful gun in use, they do not require knowledge of the external power sources the other two types of guns rely on. Electric airsoft guns are the most popular and easy to get type of airsoft gun. These guns use a rechargeable battery that powers an electric motor which works the internal parts that shoot the airsoft pellets. Gas airsoft guns use a pressurized gas to shoot the airsoft pellets and these are the most powerful of the three major types of airsoft guns, and these use Green Gas and HFC-134a.
Now that you know how you want your airsoft gun to be powered, you will want to choose which model of airsoft gun you want to buy: an airsoft rifle, an airsoft piston, an airsoft shotgun or an airsoft machine gun. The guns used in airsofting are modeled after real guns and often the only way to tell them apart is by the orange marks on the barrels and the airsoft logos that are sometimes printed on airsoft guns. There are a lot of places that you can buy airsoft guns online, but the best way to get the best deals on these airsoft guns is to try an airsoft forum. The forums will have tons of information about where the best deals are had and who the most reputable sellers are.
If forums arent your thing, you can always do a google search. Most of the sites that are listed when doing an airsoft guns search are going to be airsoft gun retailers who sell the airsoft guns and airsoft equipment. A quick perusal of the first few links should be enough to get you outfitted and on your way!
Airsofting is become more and more popular every day. Some people might confuse it with paintball, but airsofting is more of a simulated military action game with complicated maneuvers and goals while paintball is a last man standing wins the game kind of activity. People interest in airsofting should read up on the different rules of the game as well as gaining some technical knowledge of the equipment that is used before joining in the game.
Nerode Abraham is a martial arts and airsoft enthusiast, and has done extensive research on the area of airsoft. You can find out more and purchase self defense products including Airsoft Shotguns at Nerodes website http://www.projectsecuritycorp.com/airsoft-shotguns.html
------------------ ARTICLE END ------------------
Feel free to use this article in your newsletter, website, ezine, blog, or forum.
-----------
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- Do not post/reprint this article in any site or publication that contains hate, violence, porn, warez, or supports illegal activity.
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- Please send a copy of the publication, or an email indicating the URL to admin@projectsecuritycorp.com
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-----------
Article Title: 3 Tips to Follow When Purchasing the Right Airsoft Gun
Author: Nerode Abraham
Category: Extreme, Collecting, Shopping
Word Count: 520
Keywords: airsoft guns, airsoft shotgun, airsoft machine gun, airsoft, gas powerd airsoft gun
Author's Email Address: admin@projectsecuritycorp.com
Article Source: http://www.articlemarketer.com
------------------ ARTICLE START ------------------
Airsofting requires some very specific equipment. Depending on what kind of Airsofter you are, you might need special camouflaged clothing, and you will definitely need a helmet, some gloves, and some padding because airsoft pellets do not live up to their name when they are coming at you at high velocities. The most important piece of equipment you will need to purchase, of course, is your airsoft gun. When buying an airsoft gun there are two basic things you will want to already know when you go into the airsoft supply store: what kind of airsoft gun you want and how much power and speed you want your airsoft gun to have.
Airsoft guns come with three different types of power: spring power, electric power and gas power. The spring airsoft guns are good for people who are just starting out as airsofters because while they are not the most powerful gun in use, they do not require knowledge of the external power sources the other two types of guns rely on. Electric airsoft guns are the most popular and easy to get type of airsoft gun. These guns use a rechargeable battery that powers an electric motor which works the internal parts that shoot the airsoft pellets. Gas airsoft guns use a pressurized gas to shoot the airsoft pellets and these are the most powerful of the three major types of airsoft guns, and these use Green Gas and HFC-134a.
Now that you know how you want your airsoft gun to be powered, you will want to choose which model of airsoft gun you want to buy: an airsoft rifle, an airsoft piston, an airsoft shotgun or an airsoft machine gun. The guns used in airsofting are modeled after real guns and often the only way to tell them apart is by the orange marks on the barrels and the airsoft logos that are sometimes printed on airsoft guns. There are a lot of places that you can buy airsoft guns online, but the best way to get the best deals on these airsoft guns is to try an airsoft forum. The forums will have tons of information about where the best deals are had and who the most reputable sellers are.
If forums arent your thing, you can always do a google search. Most of the sites that are listed when doing an airsoft guns search are going to be airsoft gun retailers who sell the airsoft guns and airsoft equipment. A quick perusal of the first few links should be enough to get you outfitted and on your way!
Airsofting is become more and more popular every day. Some people might confuse it with paintball, but airsofting is more of a simulated military action game with complicated maneuvers and goals while paintball is a last man standing wins the game kind of activity. People interest in airsofting should read up on the different rules of the game as well as gaining some technical knowledge of the equipment that is used before joining in the game.
Nerode Abraham is a martial arts and airsoft enthusiast, and has done extensive research on the area of airsoft. You can find out more and purchase self defense products including Airsoft Shotguns at Nerodes website http://www.projectsecuritycorp.com/airsoft-shotguns.html
------------------ ARTICLE END ------------------
Friday, December 28, 2007
Taste Your Way to an Affordable, Well-Stocked Wine Cellar
Randy Gilbert offers the following royalty-free article for you to publish online or in print.
Feel free to use this article in your newsletter, website, ezine, blog, or forum.
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- Please send a copy of the publication, or an email indicating the URL to drproactive.mail@gmail.com
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Article Title: Taste Your Way to an Affordable, Well-Stocked Wine Cellar
Author: Randy Gilbert
Category: Wine and Spirits, Collecting, Shopping
Word Count: 736
Keywords: wine, wine cellar, wine collector, wine collection, buying tips for wine, wine guide, buying wine
Author's Email Address: drproactive.mail@gmail.com
Article Source: http://www.articlemarketer.com
------------------ ARTICLE START ------------------
Does the phrase "wine collector" conjure up an image of a millionaire living in a large home with a temperature-controlled room dedicated to holding fine wines?
It shouldn't. If you buy wine, you are a wine collector.
First off, you don't have to have a special room dedicated to storing your wine. As long as you keep your stash in a quiet, dark, coolish place where bottles can lay on their sides, you have a wine cellar. It could be under the bed, on the closet floor, in a refrigerated cooler, or in a basement room.
Secondly, you don't have to be rich to stock your "cellar" with fine wines; you just have to be smart. The operative concept is taste the wines and decide for your self. Doing your own tasting "homework" is an essential part of accumulating a wine cellar that you will enjoy.
Be aware that higher price does not necessarily mean the wine is better or that you will like it more than a less expensive wine. I live by the motto, "if you can't taste the difference, don't pay the difference."
In general, you will stock your cellar with three categories of wine. First are the table wines you drink within the first 12 to 24 months, before they lose their youthful fruitiness. These are your favorite everyday wines for under $15 a bottle. A whopping 90% of the wines produced in the world fall into this category!
Next are the mid-priced wines that can be drunk now, but will benefit from time in bottle. These are special occasion wines costing $15 to $25 a bottle. Keep them for about five years and they will have slightly more varied aromas and flavors. These reflect 9% of all the wines in the world.
And the last 1% of your stock is reserved for rare wines. It's not for everyone, but collecting some special vintage year bottles -- the age worthy ones that only get better with age -- can be a fine investment.
Here are six strategies to use so you don't have to empty your wallet in order to fill up your cellar with your favorite wines.
1. Experiment with less familiar grape varieties for bargains. Take the road less traveled and try wines you have never heard of. For example, the low-priced premier red of Portugal, called Bairrada, or South Africa's Pinotage might be unfamiliar, but they often deliver as good a quality and taste as the more expensive wines of California or Australia.
2. Find understudies for your favorite wines and you can save 20% to 30%. For example, when you need a stand in for Chardonnay, try Spain's top white, Albarino, or let Malbec from Argentina go on stage, and give Cabernet the night off.
3. Buy the "next door neighbor." Seek out wines from up-and-coming areas adjacent to famous vineyards and save a bundle. These well-made wines are easy on the wallet and offer real value. So start tasting Merlot-based blends - not from pricey St Emilion and Pomerol - but from their neighboring areas.
4. Sniff out the "wanna-bees." Megastar Tom Cruise went from being paid $75,000 as a wanna-be to getting $75 million for his three "Mission Impossibles." Your mission, if you accept it, is to find those budding megastar wines before they become famous and unaffordable. For example, a bottle of Elyse Cabernet, sold for just $14.50 in 2000, and is now at $56 and climbing.
5. Ask specifically for "second labels" of famous red wines from Bordeaux and Cabernet and Bordeaux-like blends from California. These are premium wines made from grapes that just weren't quite good enough to go into the top brand, but they are dead ringers for their more privileged cousins -- only they're about one-third the price.
6. Buy famous wines in poor vintages. World-class wine producers have to ruthlessly cull out poor grapes in off vintages to make excellent wines. Still yet, off vintages are priced lower than wines from an ideal growing season. Their loss is your gain.
Remember, you can be a wine collector and not have to pay a lot for the pleasure. Follow the 6 strategies provided and they will give you affordable drinking now, and in the years ahead.
The author, Dr Proactive Randy Gilbert, host at Inside Success Radio, interviewed Christine Ansbacher, a leading authority on wine tasting, toasting, buying, storing, and enjoying wine. Get her free audio on Instant Wine Savvy at http://InstantWineSavvy.com
------------------ ARTICLE END ------------------
Feel free to use this article in your newsletter, website, ezine, blog, or forum.
-----------
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- You have permission to publish this article for free providing the "About the Author" box is included in its entirety.
- Do not post/reprint this article in any site or publication that contains hate, violence, porn, warez, or supports illegal activity.
- Do not use this article in violation of the US CAN-SPAM Act. If sent by email, this article must be delivered to opt-in subscribers only.
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- Please send a copy of the publication, or an email indicating the URL to drproactive.mail@gmail.com
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-----------
Article Title: Taste Your Way to an Affordable, Well-Stocked Wine Cellar
Author: Randy Gilbert
Category: Wine and Spirits, Collecting, Shopping
Word Count: 736
Keywords: wine, wine cellar, wine collector, wine collection, buying tips for wine, wine guide, buying wine
Author's Email Address: drproactive.mail@gmail.com
Article Source: http://www.articlemarketer.com
------------------ ARTICLE START ------------------
Does the phrase "wine collector" conjure up an image of a millionaire living in a large home with a temperature-controlled room dedicated to holding fine wines?
It shouldn't. If you buy wine, you are a wine collector.
First off, you don't have to have a special room dedicated to storing your wine. As long as you keep your stash in a quiet, dark, coolish place where bottles can lay on their sides, you have a wine cellar. It could be under the bed, on the closet floor, in a refrigerated cooler, or in a basement room.
Secondly, you don't have to be rich to stock your "cellar" with fine wines; you just have to be smart. The operative concept is taste the wines and decide for your self. Doing your own tasting "homework" is an essential part of accumulating a wine cellar that you will enjoy.
Be aware that higher price does not necessarily mean the wine is better or that you will like it more than a less expensive wine. I live by the motto, "if you can't taste the difference, don't pay the difference."
In general, you will stock your cellar with three categories of wine. First are the table wines you drink within the first 12 to 24 months, before they lose their youthful fruitiness. These are your favorite everyday wines for under $15 a bottle. A whopping 90% of the wines produced in the world fall into this category!
Next are the mid-priced wines that can be drunk now, but will benefit from time in bottle. These are special occasion wines costing $15 to $25 a bottle. Keep them for about five years and they will have slightly more varied aromas and flavors. These reflect 9% of all the wines in the world.
And the last 1% of your stock is reserved for rare wines. It's not for everyone, but collecting some special vintage year bottles -- the age worthy ones that only get better with age -- can be a fine investment.
Here are six strategies to use so you don't have to empty your wallet in order to fill up your cellar with your favorite wines.
1. Experiment with less familiar grape varieties for bargains. Take the road less traveled and try wines you have never heard of. For example, the low-priced premier red of Portugal, called Bairrada, or South Africa's Pinotage might be unfamiliar, but they often deliver as good a quality and taste as the more expensive wines of California or Australia.
2. Find understudies for your favorite wines and you can save 20% to 30%. For example, when you need a stand in for Chardonnay, try Spain's top white, Albarino, or let Malbec from Argentina go on stage, and give Cabernet the night off.
3. Buy the "next door neighbor." Seek out wines from up-and-coming areas adjacent to famous vineyards and save a bundle. These well-made wines are easy on the wallet and offer real value. So start tasting Merlot-based blends - not from pricey St Emilion and Pomerol - but from their neighboring areas.
4. Sniff out the "wanna-bees." Megastar Tom Cruise went from being paid $75,000 as a wanna-be to getting $75 million for his three "Mission Impossibles." Your mission, if you accept it, is to find those budding megastar wines before they become famous and unaffordable. For example, a bottle of Elyse Cabernet, sold for just $14.50 in 2000, and is now at $56 and climbing.
5. Ask specifically for "second labels" of famous red wines from Bordeaux and Cabernet and Bordeaux-like blends from California. These are premium wines made from grapes that just weren't quite good enough to go into the top brand, but they are dead ringers for their more privileged cousins -- only they're about one-third the price.
6. Buy famous wines in poor vintages. World-class wine producers have to ruthlessly cull out poor grapes in off vintages to make excellent wines. Still yet, off vintages are priced lower than wines from an ideal growing season. Their loss is your gain.
Remember, you can be a wine collector and not have to pay a lot for the pleasure. Follow the 6 strategies provided and they will give you affordable drinking now, and in the years ahead.
The author, Dr Proactive Randy Gilbert, host at Inside Success Radio, interviewed Christine Ansbacher, a leading authority on wine tasting, toasting, buying, storing, and enjoying wine. Get her free audio on Instant Wine Savvy at http://InstantWineSavvy.com
------------------ ARTICLE END ------------------
Wednesday, December 26, 2007
Out of Pocket - Collecting Pocket Knives
William Doggett offers the following royalty-free article for you to publish online or in print.
Feel free to use this article in your newsletter, website, ezine, blog, or forum.
-----------
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- Please send a copy of the publication, or an email indicating the URL to Cole@empire-cole.com
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Article Title: Out of Pocket - Collecting Pocket Knives
Author: William Doggett
Category: Collecting, Hobbies
Word Count: 796
Keywords: pocket knife, pocket knives, knife, knives
Author's Email Address: Cole@empire-cole.com
Article Source: http://www.articlemarketer.com
------------------ ARTICLE START ------------------
Pocket knives (that are sometimes referred to as Jack Knives, Pen Knives, Folding Knives or Multi-Blades) have been manufactured commercially in America since about the middle 19th century.
Different Blades Today -
The blades themselves are pretty much the same as they were then, with slight variations depending on where you find your knife. Two different finishes were used on older knife blades, glaze and crocus. A glaze finish, the abrasive glued onto the final polishing wheel so that the edges and lines look clean. Inexpensive blades are polished by drum tumbling, which produces a very respectable looking finish that is almost impossible to fake.
Glaze Finishes -
For a glaze finish, the abrasive glued onto the final polishing wheel was of a very fine powdered emery. A true glaze finish, sometimes called a 'blue glaze', looks like a series of very fine, even parallel lines at right angles to the main cutting edge of the blade. There are collectors and dealers who fail to recognize this as an original finish and insist on buffing it out.
Crocus Finish -
For the crocus finish, the abrasive on the final wheel was crocus of iron, an extremely fine-powdered iron oxide. A crocus polish is known as a mirror finish. It's smooth and shiny and shows undistorted reflections. By contrast, a rag wheel polish yields a wavy surface and distorted reflections.
Don't Be Fooled -
To avoid being fooled by a reworked knife, it's important to understand that no old-time commercial knife factory ever used rag buffing wheels. An old knife blade or handle that shows the softened edges and slightly wavy surface produced by rag wheel buffing has certainly been reworked.
The glaze finish was standard on all low-priced knives, including most plain jack knives and a crocus polish was sometimes used all around on the very finest pearl-handled dress knives, often referred to as "Sunday go-to-meetin' knives".
Collecting Pocket Knives -
If you are hoping to be a serious collector, it is essential that you learn to recognize authentic crocus and glaze finishes. An experienced dealer or collector could show you the difference. A picture on the Internet or in a book will only take you so far in knowing what the difference between a real and a fake pocket knife is and what it will do to your collection.
There are many different handle materials to choose from for your pocket knives. The most popular is the pearl or mother-of-pearl handle, which is made from the inner lining of certain mollusk shells. A similar one is the abalone shell which is made from the inner lining of a gastropod shell.
What Handles are Made of -
Now on the endangered list and are not supposed to be hunted, ivory handles are hard to come by. There are faux ivory handles available. Walrus ivory, because of its crystalline appearing core, is only popular with handmade knives and is also rare a find, mostly in Alaska and the Russian Arctic.
Tortoise shell, Black Buffalo horn, and Gray or Green Buffalo horns all make beautiful handles and are a little easier to come by than the ivory.
A Genuine Stag is by far the most common pocket knife handle there is, cut of deer or other animal antlers. Sometimes the color is enhanced with dye, which can give off an orange hue.
The shin bone of cattle makes a Smooth White Bone and can be readily distinguished from ivory by its many tiny pores and lack of grain.
Cheap Handles -
Hard rubber is not usually used on pocket knives and celluloid is probably the cheapest and most often used today to cut the cost of pocket knives down. Celluloid was the first molded synthetic plastic, and can be made in many colors. It can also be fabricated to simulate most natural materials, including ivory, horn, pearl, tortoise shell and wood. This amazing celluloid can also be made transparent to cover photographs laid on the pocketknife, such as an Indian warrior or a hunting dog.
The recent sharp increase in prices for antique pocketknives, as well as other antique knives, has made clever counterfeiting a profitable business.
Counterfeit Knives -
The majority of counterfeit knives are real knives; however there are some knives that aren't even knives at all! Their blades have never seen heat, their edges never sharpened. Nonetheless, counterfeit knives are all about the markings, the finish and the handle materials. Remember, a low-quality knife with a high-quality name or marking is almost always a fake.
There are many sources, such as books, magazines and the Internet which will show you the real McCoy verses the counterfeit pocket knives. Caution and skepticism should be your tools when beginning and maintaining your collection of pocket knives, but they should not ruin your enjoyment of this fascinating hobby.
William "Cole" Doggett is a knife expert and owns an Internet knife shop, Knife & Supply Company, LLC at http://www.KnifeSupplyCompany.com. His website is devoted to all things pocket knives, swords, kitchen cutlery, sharpeners, machetes and a wealth of information. Stop by!
------------------ ARTICLE END ------------------
Feel free to use this article in your newsletter, website, ezine, blog, or forum.
-----------
PUBLICATION GUIDELINES
- You have permission to publish this article for free providing the "About the Author" box is included in its entirety.
- Do not post/reprint this article in any site or publication that contains hate, violence, porn, warez, or supports illegal activity.
- Do not use this article in violation of the US CAN-SPAM Act. If sent by email, this article must be delivered to opt-in subscribers only.
- If you publish this article in a format that supports linking, please ensure that all URLs and email addresses are active links.
- Please send a copy of the publication, or an email indicating the URL to Cole@empire-cole.com
- Article Marketer (www.ArticleMarketer.com) has distributed this article on behalf of the author. Article Marketer does not own this article, please respect the author's copyright and publication guidelines. If you do not agree to these terms, please do not use this article.
-----------
Article Title: Out of Pocket - Collecting Pocket Knives
Author: William Doggett
Category: Collecting, Hobbies
Word Count: 796
Keywords: pocket knife, pocket knives, knife, knives
Author's Email Address: Cole@empire-cole.com
Article Source: http://www.articlemarketer.com
------------------ ARTICLE START ------------------
Pocket knives (that are sometimes referred to as Jack Knives, Pen Knives, Folding Knives or Multi-Blades) have been manufactured commercially in America since about the middle 19th century.
Different Blades Today -
The blades themselves are pretty much the same as they were then, with slight variations depending on where you find your knife. Two different finishes were used on older knife blades, glaze and crocus. A glaze finish, the abrasive glued onto the final polishing wheel so that the edges and lines look clean. Inexpensive blades are polished by drum tumbling, which produces a very respectable looking finish that is almost impossible to fake.
Glaze Finishes -
For a glaze finish, the abrasive glued onto the final polishing wheel was of a very fine powdered emery. A true glaze finish, sometimes called a 'blue glaze', looks like a series of very fine, even parallel lines at right angles to the main cutting edge of the blade. There are collectors and dealers who fail to recognize this as an original finish and insist on buffing it out.
Crocus Finish -
For the crocus finish, the abrasive on the final wheel was crocus of iron, an extremely fine-powdered iron oxide. A crocus polish is known as a mirror finish. It's smooth and shiny and shows undistorted reflections. By contrast, a rag wheel polish yields a wavy surface and distorted reflections.
Don't Be Fooled -
To avoid being fooled by a reworked knife, it's important to understand that no old-time commercial knife factory ever used rag buffing wheels. An old knife blade or handle that shows the softened edges and slightly wavy surface produced by rag wheel buffing has certainly been reworked.
The glaze finish was standard on all low-priced knives, including most plain jack knives and a crocus polish was sometimes used all around on the very finest pearl-handled dress knives, often referred to as "Sunday go-to-meetin' knives".
Collecting Pocket Knives -
If you are hoping to be a serious collector, it is essential that you learn to recognize authentic crocus and glaze finishes. An experienced dealer or collector could show you the difference. A picture on the Internet or in a book will only take you so far in knowing what the difference between a real and a fake pocket knife is and what it will do to your collection.
There are many different handle materials to choose from for your pocket knives. The most popular is the pearl or mother-of-pearl handle, which is made from the inner lining of certain mollusk shells. A similar one is the abalone shell which is made from the inner lining of a gastropod shell.
What Handles are Made of -
Now on the endangered list and are not supposed to be hunted, ivory handles are hard to come by. There are faux ivory handles available. Walrus ivory, because of its crystalline appearing core, is only popular with handmade knives and is also rare a find, mostly in Alaska and the Russian Arctic.
Tortoise shell, Black Buffalo horn, and Gray or Green Buffalo horns all make beautiful handles and are a little easier to come by than the ivory.
A Genuine Stag is by far the most common pocket knife handle there is, cut of deer or other animal antlers. Sometimes the color is enhanced with dye, which can give off an orange hue.
The shin bone of cattle makes a Smooth White Bone and can be readily distinguished from ivory by its many tiny pores and lack of grain.
Cheap Handles -
Hard rubber is not usually used on pocket knives and celluloid is probably the cheapest and most often used today to cut the cost of pocket knives down. Celluloid was the first molded synthetic plastic, and can be made in many colors. It can also be fabricated to simulate most natural materials, including ivory, horn, pearl, tortoise shell and wood. This amazing celluloid can also be made transparent to cover photographs laid on the pocketknife, such as an Indian warrior or a hunting dog.
The recent sharp increase in prices for antique pocketknives, as well as other antique knives, has made clever counterfeiting a profitable business.
Counterfeit Knives -
The majority of counterfeit knives are real knives; however there are some knives that aren't even knives at all! Their blades have never seen heat, their edges never sharpened. Nonetheless, counterfeit knives are all about the markings, the finish and the handle materials. Remember, a low-quality knife with a high-quality name or marking is almost always a fake.
There are many sources, such as books, magazines and the Internet which will show you the real McCoy verses the counterfeit pocket knives. Caution and skepticism should be your tools when beginning and maintaining your collection of pocket knives, but they should not ruin your enjoyment of this fascinating hobby.
William "Cole" Doggett is a knife expert and owns an Internet knife shop, Knife & Supply Company, LLC at http://www.KnifeSupplyCompany.com. His website is devoted to all things pocket knives, swords, kitchen cutlery, sharpeners, machetes and a wealth of information. Stop by!
------------------ ARTICLE END ------------------
Monday, December 24, 2007
How To Refine Silver Using Household Chemicals
Mirko Davidovic offers the following royalty-free article for you to publish online or in print.
Feel free to use this article in your newsletter, website, ezine, blog, or forum.
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Article Title: How To Refine Silver Using Household Chemicals
Author: Mirko Davidovic
Category: Collecting, Science
Word Count: 717
Keywords: silver, refining, gold, collecting, prospecting, hedge against inflation
Author's Email Address: mirko@fyi4u.net
Article Source: http://www.articlemarketer.com
------------------ ARTICLE START ------------------
Throughout history silver has played a major role in all aspects of society. It has been used as a metal of choice for currencies, barter and trade. The bourgeois used it as a metering wealth status. Advances in medicine, electronics and others, are made largely to unique properties of silver.
Silver, along side with gold, are the two precious metals sought after. The supplies are dwindling, while the demand is reaching an all time high.
Not surprisingly, the price of silver has more than tripled in recent years. Both silver and gold are the commodity to hedge against the falling dollar. It is becoming a "must-have" in personal investment portfolios.
Scrap silver is all around us. It comes from variety of sources with diversified metal purity. This article is designed to refine your own silver using readily available household chemicals. The methods you are about to be introduced to will produce more than 99% of pure silver!
The first step in refining is to dissolve the silver. The best way is to use dilute Nitric Acid. Good concentration is around 40 - 50%. Concentrated Nitric Acid is one chemical that will be hard to obtain.
Since 9/11 the availability of Nitric Acid has been drastically reduced and for a good reason. Nitric Acid is one of the main components to make explosives.
For our refining purpose we will need relatively small amount of Nitric Acid. To make this, we will use concentrated Sulfuric Acid. Sulfuric Acid is commonly used as a liquid drain opener, readily available from any hardware store. The one that we will use is more than 95 percent pure. The second ingredient needed is Sodium Nitrate. It is readily available fertilizer from any gardening store.
Pour 200ml of hot distilled water to a pre-heated 1liter Pyrex container, 1 quart mason jar will work. Add approx. 400 gm of Sodium Nitrate to dissolve (Potassium Nitrate can be used as well). Once the Nitrate is completely dissolved allow it to cool down well below the boiling point, but still hot.
To this solution SLOWLY add 110 ml conc. Sulfuric Acid while stirring. Do not allow the solution to boil. Cool the solution to room temperature.
Place the jar in the freezer and allow the solution to reach ~ -5 degrees Celsius. Once all of the precipitate has settled, pour off the solution to a glass container with a tightly sealed lid. Discard the precipitate. (Make sure not to transfer any of the sulfate salt) You have just made over 300ml of ~ 50% Nitric Acid.
Fair Word Of Caution! You are dealing with concentrated acids. Take all safety precautions when dealing with concentrated acids. Make sure you wear rubber gloves, face shield and protective clothing. If you spill any of the acid, wash with plenty of water.
To refine Silver, dissolve several ounces of scrap metal in Nitric Acid. This will take some time, but make sure that all of the metal is in solution. Heating the solution will speed up the reaction. Do Not Boil.
Filter the solution using several coffee filters, keeping the clear solution. The Silver dissolved is in the form of Silver Nitrate.
The easiest way to get the Silver to drop out of the solution is to use Copper. Copper pipe, plate or any piece of solid copper will do.
Suspend the Copper, using household twine in the acid solution. A white-grayish precipitate will start to accumulate around the copper.
Tap gently the suspended Copper, and the Silver precipitate will sink to the bottom. What you are doing here is replacing the Silver Nitrate with Copper Nitrate, causing Silver to drop out of the solution.
Allow the solution to sit overnight and all of the precipitate will settle to the bottom.
The remaining solution should be crystal-blue in color. If not, use more Copper to get all of the Silver out. Filter the solution using several coffee filters, this time keeping the precipitate. Wash it several times using distilled water.
There should not be any blue Copper Nitrate around the filter. Discard the spent solution and dry the filtrate. This precipitate is Silver.
Place the dry precipitate in a crucible or a small graphite container. In a circular motion, using a torch, melt the precipitate in nuggets or the desired shape.
The result is over 99% pure Silver!
Mirko Davidovic is CEO of http://www.fyi4u.net and winemakingplus.com, with formal education in Chemical Eng.Tech.,Biochemistry and Psychology.
Here is a unique way to accumulate Silver and Gold Never before possible.
http://www.4r6s.com/SLG1.htm
------------------ ARTICLE END ------------------
Feel free to use this article in your newsletter, website, ezine, blog, or forum.
-----------
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- Do not post/reprint this article in any site or publication that contains hate, violence, porn, warez, or supports illegal activity.
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- Please send a copy of the publication, or an email indicating the URL to mirko@fyi4u.net
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-----------
Article Title: How To Refine Silver Using Household Chemicals
Author: Mirko Davidovic
Category: Collecting, Science
Word Count: 717
Keywords: silver, refining, gold, collecting, prospecting, hedge against inflation
Author's Email Address: mirko@fyi4u.net
Article Source: http://www.articlemarketer.com
------------------ ARTICLE START ------------------
Throughout history silver has played a major role in all aspects of society. It has been used as a metal of choice for currencies, barter and trade. The bourgeois used it as a metering wealth status. Advances in medicine, electronics and others, are made largely to unique properties of silver.
Silver, along side with gold, are the two precious metals sought after. The supplies are dwindling, while the demand is reaching an all time high.
Not surprisingly, the price of silver has more than tripled in recent years. Both silver and gold are the commodity to hedge against the falling dollar. It is becoming a "must-have" in personal investment portfolios.
Scrap silver is all around us. It comes from variety of sources with diversified metal purity. This article is designed to refine your own silver using readily available household chemicals. The methods you are about to be introduced to will produce more than 99% of pure silver!
The first step in refining is to dissolve the silver. The best way is to use dilute Nitric Acid. Good concentration is around 40 - 50%. Concentrated Nitric Acid is one chemical that will be hard to obtain.
Since 9/11 the availability of Nitric Acid has been drastically reduced and for a good reason. Nitric Acid is one of the main components to make explosives.
For our refining purpose we will need relatively small amount of Nitric Acid. To make this, we will use concentrated Sulfuric Acid. Sulfuric Acid is commonly used as a liquid drain opener, readily available from any hardware store. The one that we will use is more than 95 percent pure. The second ingredient needed is Sodium Nitrate. It is readily available fertilizer from any gardening store.
Pour 200ml of hot distilled water to a pre-heated 1liter Pyrex container, 1 quart mason jar will work. Add approx. 400 gm of Sodium Nitrate to dissolve (Potassium Nitrate can be used as well). Once the Nitrate is completely dissolved allow it to cool down well below the boiling point, but still hot.
To this solution SLOWLY add 110 ml conc. Sulfuric Acid while stirring. Do not allow the solution to boil. Cool the solution to room temperature.
Place the jar in the freezer and allow the solution to reach ~ -5 degrees Celsius. Once all of the precipitate has settled, pour off the solution to a glass container with a tightly sealed lid. Discard the precipitate. (Make sure not to transfer any of the sulfate salt) You have just made over 300ml of ~ 50% Nitric Acid.
Fair Word Of Caution! You are dealing with concentrated acids. Take all safety precautions when dealing with concentrated acids. Make sure you wear rubber gloves, face shield and protective clothing. If you spill any of the acid, wash with plenty of water.
To refine Silver, dissolve several ounces of scrap metal in Nitric Acid. This will take some time, but make sure that all of the metal is in solution. Heating the solution will speed up the reaction. Do Not Boil.
Filter the solution using several coffee filters, keeping the clear solution. The Silver dissolved is in the form of Silver Nitrate.
The easiest way to get the Silver to drop out of the solution is to use Copper. Copper pipe, plate or any piece of solid copper will do.
Suspend the Copper, using household twine in the acid solution. A white-grayish precipitate will start to accumulate around the copper.
Tap gently the suspended Copper, and the Silver precipitate will sink to the bottom. What you are doing here is replacing the Silver Nitrate with Copper Nitrate, causing Silver to drop out of the solution.
Allow the solution to sit overnight and all of the precipitate will settle to the bottom.
The remaining solution should be crystal-blue in color. If not, use more Copper to get all of the Silver out. Filter the solution using several coffee filters, this time keeping the precipitate. Wash it several times using distilled water.
There should not be any blue Copper Nitrate around the filter. Discard the spent solution and dry the filtrate. This precipitate is Silver.
Place the dry precipitate in a crucible or a small graphite container. In a circular motion, using a torch, melt the precipitate in nuggets or the desired shape.
The result is over 99% pure Silver!
Mirko Davidovic is CEO of http://www.fyi4u.net and winemakingplus.com, with formal education in Chemical Eng.Tech.,Biochemistry and Psychology.
Here is a unique way to accumulate Silver and Gold Never before possible.
http://www.4r6s.com/SLG1.htm
------------------ ARTICLE END ------------------
Monday, December 17, 2007
Table Refinishing, A Great Way To Stretch Your Furniture Budget
John VerHines offers the following royalty-free article for you to publish online or in print.
Feel free to use this article in your newsletter, website, ezine, blog, or forum.
-----------
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- You have permission to publish this article for free providing the "About the Author" box is included in its entirety.
- Do not post/reprint this article in any site or publication that contains hate, violence, porn, warez, or supports illegal activity.
- Do not use this article in violation of the US CAN-SPAM Act. If sent by email, this article must be delivered to opt-in subscribers only.
- If you publish this article in a format that supports linking, please ensure that all URLs and email addresses are active links.
- Please send a copy of the publication, or an email indicating the URL to gramco@mac.com
- Article Marketer (www.ArticleMarketer.com) has distributed this article on behalf of the author. Article Marketer does not own this article, please respect the author's copyright and publication guidelines. If you do not agree to these terms, please do not use this article.
-----------
Article Title: Table Refinishing, A Great Way To Stretch Your Furniture Budget
Author: John VerHines
Category: Home Improvement, Collecting, Home
Word Count: 508
Keywords: Table,Tables,,Refinish,Refinishing,Refinisher, Refinished, furniture
Author's Email Address: gramco@mac.com
Article Source: http://www.articlemarketer.com
------------------ ARTICLE START ------------------
Table refinishing is a great idea that almost everyone can benefit from, and there are as many kinds and styles of tables as you can possibly think of. Many different kinds and materials to choose from too. There are end tables, dinette tables tilt top tables step tables wood ones metal ones wicker and rattan, Thomas Chippendale tables, Duncan Fife tables too, and Sheridan tables as well, just to name a few, and every one can be refinished several times. By far the most common table to refinish would be a type of classic wooden table.
Trees have been friend of man because they provide Wood a beautiful and renewable resource that has been used for thousands of years. Wood continues to be a great choice and is the material we are focusing on today. Of the millions of wood tables in use today that could be successfully Refinished, many will be discarded for no better reason than their owners don't know what to do to keep them in good and condition.
In grandpa's day, the idea of discarding otherwise good stuff just because of issues of wear was unthinkable. Thankfully there has been a movement toward better stewardship and most people have understood how bad the disposable mindset of the eighties and nineties was. When a good table begins to wear and the finish becomes ugly, the worn finish may be removed and another fresh finish can be reapplied, this is what is meant when we speak of refinishing.
The variety of finish colors and glosses are endless. Often through refinishing your table it can take on the appearance of an altogether different table, unrecognizable to most as the previous piece. For example, in the 1960's the use of early American decor called for an extremely orange color that was commonly used on birch and maple tables. The early American stain became so identified with that period that when the early American phase passed, nobody seemed to want those old orange maple tables, so we refinished hundreds of them.
Then again around 1974 dark pine came into fashion, most people never even noticed that the same tables from the sixties were now being finished and refinished in a color more in keeping with the design trend of the day and millions of tables continued to be sold with almost no design change, the only real difference was the finish color of the wood. In the eighties the trend toward cherry reached it's apex and furniture colors changed once again.
So it becomes understandable, that when one owns good tables that have become a worn, it makes sense to refinish. Although great tables are available at fine stores today, the old tables typically offer well-seasoned wood, good quality joints and workmanship of a higher quality than most made now, so you should think twice before you decide to spend your hard earned cash for new ones, and you too can enjoy better quality tables for less money than you thought possible if you remember to refinish rather than replace.
John VerHines,of Gramco furniture restoration, a Michigan furniture refinishing co. with over 40 years experience in furniture restoration, refinishing, repair. For furniture restoration in Michigan you can visit http://www.gramcorestoration.com copyright 2006Gramco Furniture
------------------ ARTICLE END ------------------
Feel free to use this article in your newsletter, website, ezine, blog, or forum.
-----------
PUBLICATION GUIDELINES
- You have permission to publish this article for free providing the "About the Author" box is included in its entirety.
- Do not post/reprint this article in any site or publication that contains hate, violence, porn, warez, or supports illegal activity.
- Do not use this article in violation of the US CAN-SPAM Act. If sent by email, this article must be delivered to opt-in subscribers only.
- If you publish this article in a format that supports linking, please ensure that all URLs and email addresses are active links.
- Please send a copy of the publication, or an email indicating the URL to gramco@mac.com
- Article Marketer (www.ArticleMarketer.com) has distributed this article on behalf of the author. Article Marketer does not own this article, please respect the author's copyright and publication guidelines. If you do not agree to these terms, please do not use this article.
-----------
Article Title: Table Refinishing, A Great Way To Stretch Your Furniture Budget
Author: John VerHines
Category: Home Improvement, Collecting, Home
Word Count: 508
Keywords: Table,Tables,,Refinish,Refinishing,Refinisher, Refinished, furniture
Author's Email Address: gramco@mac.com
Article Source: http://www.articlemarketer.com
------------------ ARTICLE START ------------------
Table refinishing is a great idea that almost everyone can benefit from, and there are as many kinds and styles of tables as you can possibly think of. Many different kinds and materials to choose from too. There are end tables, dinette tables tilt top tables step tables wood ones metal ones wicker and rattan, Thomas Chippendale tables, Duncan Fife tables too, and Sheridan tables as well, just to name a few, and every one can be refinished several times. By far the most common table to refinish would be a type of classic wooden table.
Trees have been friend of man because they provide Wood a beautiful and renewable resource that has been used for thousands of years. Wood continues to be a great choice and is the material we are focusing on today. Of the millions of wood tables in use today that could be successfully Refinished, many will be discarded for no better reason than their owners don't know what to do to keep them in good and condition.
In grandpa's day, the idea of discarding otherwise good stuff just because of issues of wear was unthinkable. Thankfully there has been a movement toward better stewardship and most people have understood how bad the disposable mindset of the eighties and nineties was. When a good table begins to wear and the finish becomes ugly, the worn finish may be removed and another fresh finish can be reapplied, this is what is meant when we speak of refinishing.
The variety of finish colors and glosses are endless. Often through refinishing your table it can take on the appearance of an altogether different table, unrecognizable to most as the previous piece. For example, in the 1960's the use of early American decor called for an extremely orange color that was commonly used on birch and maple tables. The early American stain became so identified with that period that when the early American phase passed, nobody seemed to want those old orange maple tables, so we refinished hundreds of them.
Then again around 1974 dark pine came into fashion, most people never even noticed that the same tables from the sixties were now being finished and refinished in a color more in keeping with the design trend of the day and millions of tables continued to be sold with almost no design change, the only real difference was the finish color of the wood. In the eighties the trend toward cherry reached it's apex and furniture colors changed once again.
So it becomes understandable, that when one owns good tables that have become a worn, it makes sense to refinish. Although great tables are available at fine stores today, the old tables typically offer well-seasoned wood, good quality joints and workmanship of a higher quality than most made now, so you should think twice before you decide to spend your hard earned cash for new ones, and you too can enjoy better quality tables for less money than you thought possible if you remember to refinish rather than replace.
John VerHines,of Gramco furniture restoration, a Michigan furniture refinishing co. with over 40 years experience in furniture restoration, refinishing, repair. For furniture restoration in Michigan you can visit http://www.gramcorestoration.com copyright 2006Gramco Furniture
------------------ ARTICLE END ------------------
Become A Pro At Spotting Antiques
Derek Both offers the following royalty-free article for you to publish online or in print.
Feel free to use this article in your newsletter, website, ezine, blog, or forum.
-----------
PUBLICATION GUIDELINES
- You have permission to publish this article for free providing the "About the Author" box is included in its entirety.
- Do not post/reprint this article in any site or publication that contains hate, violence, porn, warez, or supports illegal activity.
- Do not use this article in violation of the US CAN-SPAM Act. If sent by email, this article must be delivered to opt-in subscribers only.
- If you publish this article in a format that supports linking, please ensure that all URLs and email addresses are active links.
- Please send a copy of the publication, or an email indicating the URL to cbullock@webrepairservice.co.uk
- Article Marketer (www.ArticleMarketer.com) has distributed this article on behalf of the author. Article Marketer does not own this article, please respect the author's copyright and publication guidelines. If you do not agree to these terms, please do not use this article.
-----------
Article Title: Become A Pro At Spotting Antiques
Author: Derek Both
Category: Collecting
Word Count: 416
Keywords: antique
Author's Email Address: cbullock@webrepairservice.co.uk
Article Source: http://www.articlemarketer.com
------------------ ARTICLE START ------------------
Unless you are an expert it can be very difficult to spot an antique and whether it is valuable or not. This is particularly difficult with furniture as some woods are designed to look aged when they may in fact be brand new. There are several tips you can adopt however which can successfully help you to determine whether you are literally sitting on a fortune or not.
Whilst no two antique dealers or shops will agree on what an antique actually is, typically it is described as a piece of furniture with special value because of its age. This is where the disagreements start with some people classifying something that is 50 years old as an antique and others arguing that it needs to be 150 years old to fall into this category.
The first clue that you may have some antique furniture is to look at the joinery on it. Machine - cut furniture wasn't made until about 1860 so if it looks handmade then you can almost be guaranteed that you have an antique. You can normally spot this by how precisely put on and spaced out the dovetails on the drawers are. If they look perfect then you can be pretty sure that it was made by a machine.
How the furniture has been finished is another very good indicator of whether the furniture is an antique or not. Until the Victorian times shellac was the only clear surface finish that was available until 1860 when lacquer and varnish were developed. If the finish is shellac, oil, wax, milk paint or has been French polished then you may very well have a piece of antique furniture in your hands.
If you have been unable to identify any of the above clues then a final test that can be carried out is to look at the type of wood that has been used to build the furniture. If it is made from oak then it is likely to be antique as this was used predominantly before 1700. From then onwards mahogany and walnut were commonly used so this is likely to signify a more modern piece of furniture.
If these tips are followed then it should be fairly easy to determine if your furniture is antique or not. If you discover that it is then your options are either to go to a dealer to have it valued or to simply keep it in the exact same place as you have always done.
Conquest House is a beautiful treasure house with a wide variety of antiques for every pocket. http://www.conquesthouseantiques.co.uk has all you need from the Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian to Early Twentieth Century ages.
------------------ ARTICLE END ------------------
Feel free to use this article in your newsletter, website, ezine, blog, or forum.
-----------
PUBLICATION GUIDELINES
- You have permission to publish this article for free providing the "About the Author" box is included in its entirety.
- Do not post/reprint this article in any site or publication that contains hate, violence, porn, warez, or supports illegal activity.
- Do not use this article in violation of the US CAN-SPAM Act. If sent by email, this article must be delivered to opt-in subscribers only.
- If you publish this article in a format that supports linking, please ensure that all URLs and email addresses are active links.
- Please send a copy of the publication, or an email indicating the URL to cbullock@webrepairservice.co.uk
- Article Marketer (www.ArticleMarketer.com) has distributed this article on behalf of the author. Article Marketer does not own this article, please respect the author's copyright and publication guidelines. If you do not agree to these terms, please do not use this article.
-----------
Article Title: Become A Pro At Spotting Antiques
Author: Derek Both
Category: Collecting
Word Count: 416
Keywords: antique
Author's Email Address: cbullock@webrepairservice.co.uk
Article Source: http://www.articlemarketer.com
------------------ ARTICLE START ------------------
Unless you are an expert it can be very difficult to spot an antique and whether it is valuable or not. This is particularly difficult with furniture as some woods are designed to look aged when they may in fact be brand new. There are several tips you can adopt however which can successfully help you to determine whether you are literally sitting on a fortune or not.
Whilst no two antique dealers or shops will agree on what an antique actually is, typically it is described as a piece of furniture with special value because of its age. This is where the disagreements start with some people classifying something that is 50 years old as an antique and others arguing that it needs to be 150 years old to fall into this category.
The first clue that you may have some antique furniture is to look at the joinery on it. Machine - cut furniture wasn't made until about 1860 so if it looks handmade then you can almost be guaranteed that you have an antique. You can normally spot this by how precisely put on and spaced out the dovetails on the drawers are. If they look perfect then you can be pretty sure that it was made by a machine.
How the furniture has been finished is another very good indicator of whether the furniture is an antique or not. Until the Victorian times shellac was the only clear surface finish that was available until 1860 when lacquer and varnish were developed. If the finish is shellac, oil, wax, milk paint or has been French polished then you may very well have a piece of antique furniture in your hands.
If you have been unable to identify any of the above clues then a final test that can be carried out is to look at the type of wood that has been used to build the furniture. If it is made from oak then it is likely to be antique as this was used predominantly before 1700. From then onwards mahogany and walnut were commonly used so this is likely to signify a more modern piece of furniture.
If these tips are followed then it should be fairly easy to determine if your furniture is antique or not. If you discover that it is then your options are either to go to a dealer to have it valued or to simply keep it in the exact same place as you have always done.
Conquest House is a beautiful treasure house with a wide variety of antiques for every pocket. http://www.conquesthouseantiques.co.uk has all you need from the Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian to Early Twentieth Century ages.
------------------ ARTICLE END ------------------
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